Chimney Repair — what's actually going on

Loose pots, crumbling brickwork, eroded mortar bedding or a stack that's clearly leaning.

Common causes

  • Mortar bedding and flaunching gone past its life — typical at 30–40 years
  • Frost damage to soft Victorian stock brick above the roof line
  • Sulphate attack from long-disused flues holding moisture
  • Failed lead apron and soakers letting water track into the stack base
  • Pots not mechanically fixed — common after high winds

How we fix it

  • Full close-up scaffolded inspection — not a ladder peek
  • Rebuild from a sound course, re-using original bricks where possible
  • New flaunching and pot fixings, plus a flue terminal where the chimney is redundant
  • Strip and re-dress all surrounding lead in code 4 or 5 as appropriate
  • Photograph every stage so you can see exactly what was done

Chimney Repair by area

Locally specific notes for chimney repair across the towns and neighbourhoods we cover.

Our guides on this

Flue lining explained: when a chimney needs relining

Flue lining means fitting a continuous liner inside an existing chimney so smoke and gases travel safely to the terminal. It is normally needed when a new stove or appliance goes in, when a smoke test fails, or when the original flue has cracked, leaks fumes or stains the chimney breast.

Chimney flaunching repair guide

Flaunching is the shaped mortar around chimney pots that sheds rain from the top of the stack. Cracks, loose edges or failed pot bedding can admit water, but staining near a chimney may also come from pointing or lead flashing, so the whole stack should be inspected before the flaunching is renewed.

Chimney repointing and lead flashing costs

Chimney prices are set by access first and brickwork second. Getting a safe platform to the stack is usually the largest single item, which is why doing pointing, flaunching and flashing together in one visit costs far less than three separate call outs.